Posts Tagged ‘Raising’

Growing a Tomato Garden is Like Raising Children


2010
07.30

Most people who like growing tomatoes prefer to grow them from the seeds rather than from the tomato plants from the nursery. Although there are many varieties of tomato plants which are good for first-timers like Better Boy, Creole and Brandywine, many seasoned gardeners prefer growing tomatoes from seeds as they feel that this helps prevent any soil or plant contamination that may have been brought to the greenhouse and nurseries from outside environments.

A good tomato garden needs a very sunny place. Lighting is of utmost importance to tomatoes and the seedlings might end up being very leggy looking for light if the ambience isn’t very bright.

Whether you decide to use seedlings from your local nursery or grow your own from seeds, tomato plants require good, compost rich, slightly acidic, nutrient rich soil. As organic content in the soil is extremely good for the growing tomato plants, spreading the compost well over the top layer of 2-3 inches will be good to provide them the nutrients they need. The ideal compost percentage is around 25-40 kilograms per every square meter of soil. If you intend to apply fertilizers to your soil mixture, make special note of the N-P-K distinction on the labels. N stands for the amount of nitrogen, P for potassium, and K for phospherous. Nitrogen is a growth nutrient and is the least required. Your plants will grow naturally. The other two, potassium and phosperous are very helpful for the color of the tomatoes and the strength of the vines.

If you start your seedlings indoors, then caution must be taken in making the transition to the outdoor garden environment. Moving the tomato seedlings to the tomato garden should be done carefully. It consists of 3 main steps which will ensure that the plants live after being transplanted to the garden.

The first and most important step is called hardening, or conditioning of the young seedlings to the outdoors. While still in the starter pots the plants should be placed outdoors in the shade to introduce them to the sunlight but with enough protection that the leaves are not burned. Many times a light mesh cloth or screen is used to provide necessary protection. Three to four days should be sufficient.

Once your plants are ready to plant in the garden it is important that the soil around the plant receive sufficient water right after transplanting. Three to four liters of water is necessary to assist in reducing the shock of the transplant.

And a final step is to insure that you place your plants deep in the soil. With your finger hold the position of where the current soil and the stem of the plant meet. You will want to bury the plant in the new garden soil at least one to two inches deeper! If there are small branches within this distance simple break them off. The additional portion of the stem/vine that you are planting deeper in the soil will produce many additional roots to help support the plant. The more roots you have, the healthier plant and fruit you will receive. Don’t worry about how short it looks, it’ll grow quickly!

As your plants grow you will need to pinch off dead branches and small  suckers that grow in the joints between branches. Plucking the dead leaves usually at the bottom will also spark better growth. These bottom leaves usually have fungal infection and attrack ground pests. Pinching leaves will help sunlight reach the tomatoes which are ripening as well.  However, as we know, leaves are required for photosynthesis and hence too much pruning will weaken the plants, don’t become too over zealous.

And here is the hard part. As your blossums turn to small maturing tomatoes you may need to thin the clusters. This is always difficult to pinch off a perfectly good young tomato but it is necessary to allow growth for others. Select the smaller, possibly deformed or pest damaged and carefully remove. While the plants are young and tomatoes are just beginning to grow, pinching off the tips of the branches will force the growth of the tomato fruit verses the vine.

An finally, always insure that your tomato plants get plenty of water. Tomato plants need a lot of sunlight and ample water to flourish. Water should be supplied at regular intervals.

Treat your tomato plants as if they were children! Lots of attention, everything in moderation, and be consistent (watering).

Happy gardening.

Adam Bradley just wanted some great tasting tomatoes! His family had so much fun “tomato farming” it got out of hand. When people began asking for advice, he used first hand knowledge and research to offer tips on growing great tomatoes. Read more here: http://tomatogardencenter.com/tomato-gardens-need-sunlight. He invites anyone who would like some great tips, to his free Mini-Course on growing tomatoes: http://www.tomatogardencenter.com.

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Raising Tomato Plants from Seed


2009
10.29

Tomatoes, although technically short-lived perennials, are treated as annuals and raised from seed each year. They are sub-tropical plants that require a consistent temperature of at least 55ºF in order to germinate successfully, but a temperature of 70ºF will produce much quicker emergence and is generally preferred. Given warmth, good light and a damp friable growing medium tomatoes are very easy to raise from seed.

For most gardeners, even those that live in warmer districts where tomatoes are cultivated outdoors from their very early stages of growth, it is usual to start the seeds off in pans or flats of compost under controlled conditions. Tomatoes can be sown directly into the open ground, where the climate and soil conditions are suitable, but much better establishment of better quality plants always results from controlled seed raising and growing the seedlings during their initial stages of growth in independent modules or pots. Transplanting is easier and establishment is rapid.

As tomato seeds are large enough to handle individually, it is best to space them out on the surface of the prepared compost so that when they germinate they do not crowd each other. Also when they are pricked out there is no undue disturbance of the fragile root systems through them having become entangled with each other. A properly formulated seed compost is essential. A sterile medium of a texture and quality that will offer the best start for the germinating seeds.

There are a number of different composts available, but for the hobby gardener a good soil-based seed compost is to be preferred to a soil-less one. Soil-based composts, although generally slower to warm-up, and often slightly impairing the speed of seed germination, usually yield the finest and strongest plants, especially for planting directly into the garden outdoors.

Plants that have been raised in a soil-less compost, which almost always comprises a high proportion of friable peat, often take time to adapt their roots to the more hostile and less forgiving medium of natural garden soil when planted in their permanent positions. Sometimes a check in growth occurs while the roots adapt, resulting in an impairment in the plant’s development.

Soil-based composts also overcome the problem, commonly encountered with tomato seedlings raised in a soil-less medium, of the seed coat sticking the two seed leaves together, often making them inseparable without causing damage. The seed coat is generally detached by the coarser soil-based medium as the seedlings emerge.

Once the seedlings have their two seed leaves fully expanded they should be pricked out, ideally into individual modules or small pots, although they can spend two or three weeks pricked out into flats in order to save space when this is necessary. Like all seedlings, tomatoes that are raised in this manner are vulnerable to damping off disease. This causes the seedlings to rot at the base of the stem and collapse. The routine use of a fungicidal treatment is to be recommended.

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